No Trick or Treat in Bulusan's All Souls' Day

Trick or Treat what?

If you are a Bulusan kid the Trick or Treat Halloween activity of city kids is totally strange.

What is more familiar are the candle ball making in the cemetery and the prank play of being mischievous for a night during the 'tigkaralagan' when kids and teenagers (most often boys) are often tolerated whenever they do some 'harmless' tricks to their neighbors who were unfortunate enough to be the objects of this fun night.This is usually done on the night of November 1, All Saints' Day. Though All Souls' Day is a day after, the locals are more accustomed to celebrate these two occasions as one.

But for most kids the candle ball forming in the cemetery is an activity that is fun enough.

In Bulusan, the 'pwera sibang' prayer is obligatory when passing in known or unknown tomb. This will assure that no harm and no ire will befall to those who say this short prayer addressed to  the ghosts and spirits that may still be inhabiting the tombs.

No known incident though of  'sibang' in my entire stay in my hometown.

Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Tuob as Indigenous Knowledge: Aligning with the Elements of Nature

As an apprentice for the bobo maker I listened to every word he says. After the weaving sessions that took around several days of 'chop-chop' (segmented) demonstration of  'bobo' weaving steps, Inggo, explained that the process of integrating the object to the sea has in fact not yet commenced.

"This is my old bobo and this one (lifting the other bobo)is the newly woven one. I cannot just immerse this new bobo fish trap into the sea. I have to follow my accustomed rituals as taught to me by an old parabolong (medicine man cum village shaman).

The same items used for the traditional tuob as commonly practiced, the 'kamanyang', 'oliva' palm leaves from the recent 'hosana' are to be utilized in the tuob ritual. The additional material and the most important in this particular tuob specifically done for my bobo fish traps are the pieces of pandan leaves gathered near the shore as the final ingredient in the 'tuob' explained Inggo. The numbers must be in the odd number never in the even. 3, 5 and 7 are odd numbers.

Tuob is a ritual of cleansing and blessing at the same time. It bestows the object a sense of invulnerability to bad luck and to shoo away unfriendly spirits that will cause it to not function properly in the tasks ahead. It aligns it to the good elements of nature and attracts the good chi and thus more fishes will lend itself to be caught in it. This is in sum the purpose of the ritual the way I understood  Inggo.

"I prepare these items when everyone is asleep and I see to it that there are no people in my route to the sea so as the remaining embers of  the tuob materials will be able to float freely to the sea unencumbered free from the prying eyes of curious onlookers. In a 'bagol' (half coconut shell) the materials are earlier made into a fire to produce the thick smoke so important for the tuob process. The smoke must bathe the newly woven bobo fish trap entirely for several minutes.

After the ritual, the remaining embers are brought to sea as quickly and secretly as possible to be floated unto the vast unending sea inside the same 'bagol' used in the tuob.. This I believe is a symbolic act that pays homage to the spirits of the sea.

"One must not look back after the tuob's remaining glowing fragment is set to float to the sea. You must go back as quickly as possible leaving the embers in the half coconut shell floating to the vastness of the ocean with its remaining smoke finally extinguished by the ocean breeze."


Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Durian in Pili land

Two weeks ago, Bulusan sa'ud yielded a surprise. Durian. A farm from San Roque, Bulusan sold several items of ripe local grown durian probably a first in its history.

Was fortunate enough to buy the last item. The event that followed was our durian 'party' in a room hideaway in our second floor bodega  away from my mother who loathed the smell.

It was a feast with my sis-in-law. Durian is our mutual favorite. Oya Choleng was genuinely puzzled to our delight. "Nano ini langka? (Is this a kind of jackfruit?) . No one answered. Everyone was busy devouring the extremely delicious local-grown durian.


Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Bulusan's strong folk religiosity

Religious occasions like fiestas are good days for buying items like novena prayer booklets, handkerchiefs with religious images/prayers and rosaries in Bulusan. The vendors usually make these items available in  makeshift stalls located near the church yard.

Bulusan has a strong Catholic tradition that dates back to the Spanish colonial period. The Parroqia being founded year 1630 is one of the four oldest towns in the province of Sorsogon.

I used to have the San Benito bronze medallion with me to ward off bad spirits. These were the times when a friend of mine was struggling from a disease and I can only watch helplessly in the process. San Benito medal acted as a security blanket in some strange ways.

Today, I still have this habit of checking these items and asking the vendor what are the available novena booklets and checking the folkloric designs of the bronze medallions and some 'agimat' (amulet/talisman) looking items.

In this year's Bulusan town fiesta, the Saint James the Greater novenas were all sold out attesting to the town's devotion and love  for the saint. No hurry though, I can have my copy of the novena next fiesta. I am a regular resident now of this truly awesome town.

Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Homing instinct

Like the Bulusan pawikan (marine turtle), guided by the imbedded earth's magnetic field in its memory and the smell of its mother shore, my coming home is as natural and inevitable. This almost empty floor of our bodega-like home is now filled with my 'busyness' of anything from talking to potatom (my thoughtful and sweet dog), to having conversation with an incognito web friend, to taking this photo (and more photos), to listening to baroque music as interpreted by Wynton Marsalis, to the music of Sean Crowe and Engkanto...and writing about Inggo the fish trap weaver.

My mother to this day after a year of my coming home (she is living downstairs) cannot yet fathom what I am so busy about but somehow accepted my unusual ways without question.

Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Hats on a hot anahaw roof

Perched on the anahaw thatched roof of a rural home in Dancalan, are these karagumoy hats (kalo) drying under the heat of the high noon sun. After the extra strips are trimmed off--('gusap' is how the locals call the process), the hats are then brought to the  hat traders in the Poblacion who are also owners of medium to big grocery stores. These can therefore bring home some grocery items from canned goods, rice and even cell phone load depending of course as to the number of hats being delivered. A karagumoy hat exchange rate goes between Php4-5 on average.

Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Bulusan's other ancient walls

Few know that these walls exist right in the Poblacion along Sabang Road. Some in the know say that these predates the Spanish walls at the chuchyard. Some say that this is the trail to an earlier Bulusan settlement. Nobody is really sure. But what can be noticed at first sight is how these rocks can hold together for so long without crambling down with little or no cement. Tried pulling one rock myself but the adhesive material (whatever it is) is really keeping the rocks together.  Remarkable technique of stacking of the rocks!

This is the trail being used now in going up to Kapilihan. Not easy to spot because it runs perpendicular to the main road. It is located just meters away from the spillway.

Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines

Sadok

The handicraft store near the Bulusan jeepney stop in Gubat  is selling this updated version of the traditional sadok. The 'tindero' (salesclerk) calls it as the 'sadok na may payong' because of the recycled umbrella fabric over the anahaw top.

The sadok is a rain and sun protection still widely used by Bulusan rural folks traditionally made from anahaw with bamboo framing underneath fastened by nito.

Bulusan sadok crafstmen are vanishing. As of my latest search... I have yet to find a living sadok maker in Bulusan still engaged in the craft.

Bulusan kids

No shades of a country mouse, Bulusan kids are now as savvy as their urban counterparts. Probably brought on by the fast entry of modern communications, cable tv and the internet.

These kids practically prod me to take photos of  them while they gamely pose and then check my camera monitor afterwards to look for photos of themselves near the 'kampanaryo'(belfry).

Payaw

Before the plastic craze these leaves are the dependable wrapper for small items bought in the 'plaza' or public market from dried fish to fresh items sold by vendors like 'turos', 'angol' and 'lato'.

It can be a very attractive material for landscaping in urban places with tropical themes but for now the payaw is lushly growing in many farm patches. These contribute to Bulusan's biodiversity, enhance its ecosystem and provide natural aesthetic wherever it grows. Payaw is wild grown.

Bobo is a smart fish trap for Bulusan's Turos

Ever wonder why the taste of your 'turos' (local species of ziganids) is extra tasty? It is because of this bobo (fish trap). The ones caught in the nylon mess are sometimes entangled in the net causing them to die while still at sea. In contrast with those trapped in a bobo, where the fish can still freely swim inside the trap and therefore very much alive when drawn out from the sea.

Karagumoy Geometry

Karagumoy Geometry, a photo by Alma_images on Flickr.

Santo Nino minus the curly locks

Santo Nino minus the curly locks, a photo by Alma_images on Flickr.

Saint Michael, the Archangel

Saint Michael, the Archangel, a photo by Alma_images on Flickr.

Bulusan village saint (2)

Bulusan village saint (2), a photo by Alma_images on Flickr.

Bulusan village saint (3)

Bulusan village saint (3), a photo by Alma_images on Flickr.

Mount Bulusan: The Artist

Bulusan sky is a canvas for the unexpected cloud formations that form around the volcano. If you are lucky enough to chance upon some remarkable formations be sure  to get your camera ready for it changes within minutes. The volcanic heat causes these remarkable cloud shapes and forms. It is a daily treat for me living in a house with an azotea fronting a view of the dome-shaped Bulusan Volcano. (Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines)

Mount Bulusan Azotea View: Like a Breast without a Nipple

Viewed from our house azotea, Mount Bulusan looks like a maiden's breast without a nipple. Sometimes it is covered with a soft bra-liked form of clouds and sometimes none at all. The mood of the volcano seems to dictate what type of cloud to wear for the day. As for the nipple--there is no need for one. Her arteries instead supply the freshest of water to our tap and the rest of the communities around her.

Binamban: Bulusan Snack Treat wrapped in Hagikhik

Bulusan Lake in Minutes

Full Moon Concert by the Beach

Reggae music and Pinoy rock blend well in the clubhouse ambiance of Villa Celeste Resort in Bulusan. The full moon provides the finishing touches. The beer is flowing, too, as you soak in the cool night air from the beach beside it. Watch out for the 2nd Rakrakan music festival on March 31, 2013. (Bulusan, Sorsogon Philippines)

note:  The organizers cancelled the concert this March, 2013.

Coconut Grove by the Beach

Fronting a spacious 'hubasan' where one can gather lokog, buskay, gulaman and lato, this coconut grove in Dancalan is the perfect hideaway for an afternoon siesta. The breeze is soft for an undisturbed napping. Bring bahaw with you for that afternoon hunger pangs. (Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines)